{"id":242,"date":"2026-10-20T10:57:42","date_gmt":"2026-10-20T10:57:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.citrus-lime.com\/cliv\/?p=242"},"modified":"2026-10-20T11:11:12","modified_gmt":"2026-10-20T11:11:12","slug":"autumn-winter-cycling-lights-kit-and-bike-care-for-darker-days","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.citrus-lime.com\/cliv\/autumn-winter-cycling-lights-kit-and-bike-care-for-darker-days\/","title":{"rendered":"Autumn &amp; Winter Cycling: Lights, Kit and Bike Care for Darker Days"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Autumn in the UK means wet leaves, muddy lanes, Atlantic showers and, from late October, riding home in the dark. None of that is a reason to put the bike away. With the right lights, a pair of mudguards and a few layers, Autumn and Winter &#8220;can&#8221; be some of the best riding of the year if you&#8217;re willing to get out in the elements: quieter trails, crisp mornings and no Summer traffic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Since 1970 we&#8217;ve been helping kit out Cornish riders for the darker and gloomier months. Below you&#8217;ll find everything you need, from lights to overshoes, plus a full guide to staying seen, dry and warm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Quick Overview: <\/strong>For Autumn and Winter cycling you need <strong><a href=\"https:\/\/blog.citrus-lime.com\/cliv\/lights\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">front and rear lights<\/a><\/strong> (a legal requirement after dark in the UK), <strong>mudguards<\/strong> to keep the road spray off you, a <strong>waterproof jacket<\/strong>, <strong>full-finger gloves<\/strong> and <strong>layers<\/strong> you can add\/remove when necessary. Swap to a wet lube, check your tyres and brakes, and <a href=\"https:\/\/blog.citrus-lime.com\/cliv\/pages\/workshop\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">book a pre-winter service.<\/a> The clocks go back on Sunday 25th October 2026, so most importantly, sort your lights and reflective gear out before then.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Bike Lights: What the Law states and what you need<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Lights are the only piece of winter kit that isn&#8217;t optional. They&#8217;re also the most searched for cycling item during the week the clocks change.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"536\" src=\"https:\/\/blog.citrus-lime.com\/cliv\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/235\/2026\/10\/bike_lights_blog_winter-1024x536.webp\" alt=\"front and rear bike lights on a rainy backdrop\" class=\"wp-image-270\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blog.citrus-lime.com\/cliv\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/235\/2026\/10\/bike_lights_blog_winter-1024x536.webp 1024w, https:\/\/blog.citrus-lime.com\/cliv\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/235\/2026\/10\/bike_lights_blog_winter-300x157.webp 300w, https:\/\/blog.citrus-lime.com\/cliv\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/235\/2026\/10\/bike_lights_blog_winter-768x402.webp 768w, https:\/\/blog.citrus-lime.com\/cliv\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/235\/2026\/10\/bike_lights_blog_winter.webp 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Do I need lights on my bike by law in the UK?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Yes, when you ride between sunset and sunrise. The Highway Code (Rule 60) says that at night your bike MUST have a white front light and a red rear light, both illuminated. It <strong>must<\/strong> also have a red rear reflector, and amber pedal reflectors if the bike was manufactured after 1st October 1985.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Most new bikes come with reflectors but no lights. A bike that&#8217;s legal to sell during the daytime isn&#8217;t automatically legal to ride at night. It&#8217;s your responsibility for checking your prepared for night riding.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What time do I need my bike lights on?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>The legal requirement runs from <strong>sunset to sunrise<\/strong>. In practice, switch them on whenever visibility drops: dusk, heavy rain, fog, sea mist or tree-lined lanes on a grey afternoon. Once the clocks go back on 25th October 2026, sunset in the UK drops to around 5pm, so most commutes home will be in the dark until spring.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How bright should bike lights be?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Brightness is measured in Lumens. There&#8217;s no legal minimum in lumens, but as a rule of thumb:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table\"><table class=\"has-fixed-layout\"><thead><tr><th class=\"has-text-align-left\" data-align=\"left\">Where you ride<\/th><th class=\"has-text-align-left\" data-align=\"left\">Front light<\/th><th class=\"has-text-align-left\" data-align=\"left\">Rear light<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><td>Lit town streets<\/td><td>100 to 300 lumens (&#8220;to be seen&#8221;)<\/td><td>20 to 50 lumens<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Unlit lanes and country roads<\/td><td>400 to 800+ lumens (&#8220;to see&#8221;)<\/td><td>50 to 100+ lumens<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Off-road and night trail riding<\/td><td>1,000+ lumens, ideally with a helmet light as well<\/td><td>50+ lumens<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Daytime running<\/td><td>Flashing mode, as bright as practical<\/td><td>&nbsp;Flashing, 50+ lumens<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Are flashing bike lights legal in the UK?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Yes. Flashing lights are permitted. However, the Highway Code recommends a <strong>steady front light<\/strong> if you&#8217;re riding where there&#8217;s no street lighting, because a flashing beam makes it hard to judge the road surface. A common setup is a steady front light with a flashing or pulsing rear<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Lumens aren&#8217;t the whole story. A well-shaped beam that doesn&#8217;t dazzle oncoming drivers is worth more than a raw lumen number on the box. Side visibility matters too, especially at junctions and roundabouts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What are the best bike lights for commuting?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>For most commuters, a USB-rechargeable light set is the sweet spot: a front light of around 400 to 800 lumens and a bright rear of 50 lumens or more. Look for:&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Run time&nbsp;<\/strong>that covers your round trip on the mode you&#8217;ll actually use, with spare capacity for cold weather (batteries drain faster in the cold).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Side visibility<\/strong> cut-outs for junctions.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>A secure, tool-free mount<\/strong> so you can take the lights off when you lock the bike up.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>A lower battery indicator<\/strong> so you&#8217;re never caught out halfway home.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Weather resistance<\/strong> (an IPX4 rating or better copes with Cornish rain).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What lights are best for country lanes?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>County lanes are unlit, narrow and hedged, with plenty of tractors, drivers unfamiliar with back lane driving and blind bends. Here you need a light to help YOU see, not just be seen: 600 lumens or more on the front, with a wide beam that lights the verge and potholes, whilst also illuminating the hedgerow for approaching cars to see, plus a bright rear. We would strongly advise keeping a small backup rear light in your bag. If your main one dies on an unlit lane, you&#8217;re invisible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Should I use daytime running lights on my bike?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Yes. A flashing front and rear in daylight makes you noticeably easier to spot, especially in the flat grey light of Autumn, low winter sun and under trees. Many modern lights have a dedicated daytime flash mode that&#8217;s very bright but conserves battery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Do I need reflectors as well as lights?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Legally, yes: a red rear reflector and amber pedal reflectors (on bikes made after 1985). Beyond the law, reflective detailing on moving parts (ankles, pedals, wheels) is especially effective because the up and down movement draws the eye of drivers, providing an extra stimulus so they are aware they are looking at a cyclist.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-layout-flex wp-block-buttons-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-button\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\">shop bike lights<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Mudguards: The Most Underrated Winter Upgrade<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Do I need mudguards for winter cycling?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>If you ride on roads or paths between October and March, yes. Without them, your back wheel throws a line of road water and grit up your back and over your drivetrain, and your front wheels throws it into your face and hands. Mudguards keep you drier and cleaner, and helps protect your bike&#8217;s components. On group rides, a rear mudguard is basic cycling etiquette, because the rider behind you gets the spray otherwise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Clip-on mudguards vs full mudguards: Which is better?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Full-length mudguards<\/strong> bolt to eyelets on the frame and fork. They give the best coverage and stay put, so they&#8217;re ideal for commuters and hybrid riders.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Clip-on mudguards<\/strong> attach with straps or quick-release clips. They suit road and gravel bikes without eyelets and also bikes you dont want to keep them on all year. Coverage is a bit less, but they still make a big difference.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Will mudguards fit my bike?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Check two things: <strong>eyelets<\/strong> (small threaded holes near the dropouts and fork ends) and <strong>tyre clearance<\/strong> (space between the tyre and frame). Road bikes with tight clearance usually need slim clip-ons. If you&#8217;re not sure, bring your bike in, and we&#8217;ll check what fits. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What mudguards do I need for a hybrid, mountain or gravel bike?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Hybrid:&nbsp;<\/strong>full-length mudguards are usually the easy answer, since most hybrids have eyelets.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Mountain bike: <\/strong>a short front guard that clips to the fork (sometimes called a &#8220;mudhugger&#8221; style guard) keeps mud out of your eyes, plus an optional rear guard under the saddle or on the frame.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Gravel: <\/strong>check clearance carefully. Many gravel bikes have eyelets for full mudguards, but wide tyres may limit the options. See our <a href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/collection\/gravel-bikes-explained-2026\">gravel bikes guide<\/a> for more.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-layout-flex wp-block-buttons-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-button\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/accessories\/finishing-kit\/mudguards\">Shop Mudguards<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What to Wear Cycling in Autumn and Winter<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>The secret to winter cycling clothing is layers, not one big coat. You warm up fast on a bike, especially on Cornish hills, so you need to be able to vent heat and add warmth when you want it, on descents.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What should I wear cycling in Autumn?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Autumn is about flexibility. Mornings start cold, afternoons can be mild, showers arrive with no warning, but also a cloudless day with bright sunshine can soon warm you up. A good Autumn setup is:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>a short or long-sleeved jersey with arm and knee warmers you can take off and pocket<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>A lightweight packable waterproof or windproof shell<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>full-finger gloves for chilly mornings, <\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>a light neck warmer<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-layout-flex wp-block-buttons-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-button\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/clothing\/male\/adult\">Shop mens clothing<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-button\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/jackets-and-gilets\/female\/adult\">Shop womans jackets<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What should I wear cycling in Winter<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Build from three layers:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>1:<\/strong> <strong>Base layer<\/strong>: a merino or synthetic layer that moves sweat away from your skin. Avoid cotton, which stays wet and cold<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>2: Mid layer<\/strong>: a long-sleeve thermal jersey for insulation<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>3: Outer layer<\/strong>: a waterproof or windproof jacket.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Add thermal tights or bib tights, winter gloves, overshoes and a neck warmer or a skull cap under your helmet. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The temperature test: you should feel slightly cold for the first five minutes. If you&#8217;re warm standing still, you&#8217;ll overheat once you start climbing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What makes a good waterproof cycling jacket?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Look for:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>A cycling-specific cut:<\/strong> longer at the back, slimmer at the front and arms, so it doesn&#8217;t flap or ride up.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Taped seams and a decent waterproof rating,<\/strong> plus <strong>breathability<\/strong>. A fully waterproof jacket that doesn&#8217;t breath will soak you from the inside.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Ventilation<\/strong> (armpit zips or back vents) for climbing.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Reflective details<\/strong> and bright or high-vis colours for darker days and night riding.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Packability<\/strong>, if you&#8217;ll take it off mid-ride<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Should I wear high-vis when cycling?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-black-color has-text-color has-link-color wp-elements-512a2cec4a7749a61633d492fae79430\">It&#8217;s not a legal requirement, but bright and reflective clothing <strong>DOES<\/strong> and <strong>WILL<\/strong> help you get seen. <strong>Fluorescent colours<\/strong> work best in daylight and dusk; reflective material works at night, when car headlights hit it. A good winter jacket ideally has both. Reflective detailing on your legs and ankles also makes a big difference as these limbs are moving.<br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How do I keep my hands warm cycling?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Wear proper winter gloves: insulated, windproof and ideally waterproof, with enough grip and feel to operate brakes and gears. For really cold or wet days, a thin liner glove underneath adds warmth. Keep your core warm too, because your body cuts blood flow to your hands first when your core is cold. Getting cold hands on a descent is a sign your body needs another layer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-layout-flex wp-block-buttons-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-button\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/gloves-and-mitts\">Shop Gloves &amp; Mitts<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How do I keep my feet warm cycling?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Overshoes are the answer. They go over your cycling shoes, block wind and water, and make a huge difference on cold or wet rides. Neoprene overshoes are the warmest; and lighter <a href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/footwear\/overshoes\/castelli-toe-thingy-2-toe-covers-in-black__1285\">toe covers <\/a>suit Autumn riding. Add <a href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/footwear\/socks\/endura-baabaa-merino-winter-socks-in-black__1900\" data-type=\"link\" data-id=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/footwear\/socks\/endura-baabaa-merino-winter-socks-in-black__1900\">merino <\/a>or thermal socks, and avoid socks so thick they squash your feet in your shoes, since tight shoes restrict blood flow and make your feet colder.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-layout-flex wp-block-buttons-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-button\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/socks\">Shop socks<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-button\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/footwear\/socks\/endura-baabaa-merino-winter-socks-in-black__1900\">shop merino socks<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Do I need winter cycling tights?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Below roughly 10\u00b0C, most riders are more comfortable in thermal tights or bib tights than shorts and leg warmers. Fleece-backed fabrics keep you warm, and some include a water resistant front panel for spray. Bib tights avoid the cold gap at your lower back when compared to standard shorts. Keeping your knees covered with tights in the cold is also kinder to your joints.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Winter Bike Tyres <\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Do I need Winter tyres on my bike?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>You often dont need to swap them, but in an ideal world its often worth it. Winter roads are covered in flints, thorns from hedge cutting, and road grit. That&#8217;s a recipe for punctures. <strong>Winter or puncture-resistant tyres<\/strong> use a tougher casing, a protective belt under the tread and a grippier compound for cold, wet roads. They&#8217;re a bit heavier, but fixing a puncture with numb fingers in the rain on an unlit lane is not fun for anyone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Riding in the Rain, the Dark and Icy Conditions<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What are the best tips for cycling in the rain?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Brake earlier and more gently<\/strong>. Wet rims and rotors need a moment to clear water before they bite<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Avoid painted lines, drain covers and metal grates<\/strong>, which are lethal when wet.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Corner more upright<\/strong> with less lean and smoother steering<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>PAY ATTENTION<\/strong> to your surroundings even more than usual, drivers unconfident in bad weather become a greater risk<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Watch out for puddles<\/strong> these can hide potholes<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Keep a dry layer and a spare pair of gloves<\/strong> in your bag for longer rides.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Is it dangerous to cycle on wet leaves?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Wet leaves are on of Autumn&#8217;s biggest hazards. They&#8217;re as slippery as ice and can hide potholes, kerbs and drain covers. Ride around piles of accumulated leaves where it&#8217;s safe to, avoid braking and turning sharply on them, and take extra care on tree-lined lanes and woodland trails.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How do I stay safe cycling in the dark?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Run bright front and rear lights and a backup. Wear reflective detailing, especially on your ankles. Ride assertively in the lane where needed rather than in the gutter. Plan routes with half-decent lighting, and slow down on unfamiliar roads, where surface hazards wont be seen as early. ALWAYS assume drivers haven&#8217;t seen you at junctions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Is it safe to cycle on ice?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>No, ice.. particularly black ice, is the one condition where staying home is often the right call. If you do ride, avoid shaded lanes, bridges and the edges of roads, where frost lingers. Keep your braking and steering smooth, and possibly lower your tyre pressure ever so slightly. If your a really passionate cyclist and need your ride, jump on the turbo trainer or cycle once the suns up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How do I cycle in strong winds?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>This is mainly for our Cornish brethren, but the same goes for cycling nationwide. Keep a looser grip, so sudden gusts of wind dont push the steering, lower your body position to reduce the area the wind hits. Be cautious with deep-dish wheels which catch crosswinds. On exposed coastal routes, plan to ride out into the wind and come home with it behind you when fatigue plays a bigger role.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How do I clean my bike after a wet ride?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Rinse<\/strong> off mud and grit with low-pressure water. Avoid jet washing near bearings, and or electrical components.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Clean the drivetrain<\/strong> (chain. cassette, chainrings) with a bike-specific degreaser.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Dry the bike<\/strong>, especially the chain. For optimal maintenance, use a water repellent like <a href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/muc-off\">Muc-off<\/a> MO94 spray.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Re-lube<\/strong> the chain and wipe off the excess. Spray suspension stanchions with silicon shine spray.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-layout-flex wp-block-buttons-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-button\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/tools-maintenance\/cleaning-products\/muc-off-mo-94-750ml-bike-spray__1100\">buy MO94 spray<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-button\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/tools-maintenance\/lubricants-grease\/muc-off-silicone-shine-500ml__939\">Buy Silicon Shine Spray<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-button\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/muc-off\">Browse MUC-OFF<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Even a quick rinse and re-lube after a wet ride makes your drivetrain last much longer. Coastal salt spray in particular eats way at chains and bolts if it&#8217;s left on. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Wet lube vs dry lube: which should I use in Winter?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Wet lube for Autumn and Winter. It&#8217;s thicker and doesn&#8217;t wash off in the rain, so your chain stays protected for longer. The downside is that it attracts dirt, so wipe the chain clean before you add more. Dry lube is lighter and cleaner, but washes off quickly in wet conditions, so save it for summer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How often should I lube my chain in winter?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>For best practise, after every wet ride, or roughly every 100 to 150km in mixed conditions. A chain that squeaks or looks dry is overdue some love. Over-lubing can also be a problem, excess lube becomes a grinding paste of grit. Apply, let it soak in, then wipe off the excess. All this said, we know in the real world no one has the time or energy to keep on top of these things daily, do your best to keep the bike clean and dry after wet rides and try to least keep up a weekly level of maintenance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Should I get my bike serviced before Winter?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Yes. Autumn is the ideal time for a service, so the bike goes into Winter in good shape. A pre-winter service should cover:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Brake pads and rotors\/rims<\/strong> (pads wear fast in the wet)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Chain and cassette wear<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Gear indexing<\/strong> and cable condition<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Tyre condition<\/strong> and pressure<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Bearings<\/strong> (headset, wheels, bottom bracket)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Bolts torqued<\/strong> to spec<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>For e-bikes:<\/strong> a diagnostics check and software update<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>If your reading this in Cornwall, our Summercourt workshop handles everything from a basic safety check to a full strip-down, including Bosch e-bike diagnostics.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-layout-flex wp-block-buttons-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-button\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/pages\/workshop\/\">Book a winter service<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Do I need a Winter bike?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Not necessarily, but lots of keen road riders keep one. A winter bike is usually an older or cheaper bike with mudguards, less expensive components, and tougher tyres, so the good bike is saved for dry days. It means you&#8217;re not wearing out a high quality groupset on gritty Winter roads. A hybrid or gravel bike fitted with mudguards makes an excellent Winter bike.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How should I store my bike over Winter?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Keep it <strong>indoors and dry<\/strong> if possible. A damp shed, hallway or the back of a car speeds up corrosion. Clean and lube it before it goes into storage, keep the tyres inflated (or hang it up), and keep lithium batteries indoors at room temperature. If it&#8217;s going to sit for the whole Winter, a service in Spring will get it ready to roll again.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Winter Cycling Commuting<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Is it worth cycle commuting through the Winter?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Absolutely. With the right kit, Winter commuting is very doable, and it beats sitting in rush hour traffic. The essentials are:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Lights<\/strong> for front and rear, plus a back up rear light<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Full mudguards<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>A waterproof jacke<\/strong>t, and waterproof trousers or overtrousers for heavier rain<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Gloves and overshoes<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Panniers or a waterproof<\/strong> bag to keep your work clothes dry<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>A reliable lock<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Can I buy Winter cycling kit on the Cycle to Work scheme?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Yes. The cycle to work scheme can cover <strong>safety equipment and accessories<\/strong> such as lights, locks, mudguards and helmets, as well as the bike itself, usually as part of the same budget package. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-layout-flex wp-block-buttons-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-button\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/\">Our Store<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-button\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/accessories\/finishing-kit\/mudguards\">shop mudguards<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-button\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/accessories\/finishing-kit\/mudguards\">shop bike lights<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-button\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/packs-and-luggage\">shop panniers &amp; bags<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-button\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button\" href=\"https:\/\/www.clivemitchellcycles.co.uk\/electric-bikes\">shop e-bikes<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Autumn in the UK means wet leaves, muddy lanes, Atlantic showers and, from late October, riding home in the dark. None of that is a reason to put the bike away. With the right lights, a pair of mudguards and a few layers, Autumn and Winter &#8220;can&#8221; be some of the best riding of the<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":257,"featured_media":267,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_price":"","_stock":"","_tribe_ticket_header":"","_tribe_default_ticket_provider":"","_tribe_ticket_capacity":"0","_ticket_start_date":"","_ticket_end_date":"","_tribe_ticket_show_description":"","_tribe_ticket_show_not_going":false,"_tribe_ticket_use_global_stock":"","_tribe_ticket_global_stock_level":"","_global_stock_mode":"","_global_stock_cap":"","_tribe_rsvp_for_event":"","_tribe_ticket_going_count":"","_tribe_ticket_not_going_count":"","_tribe_tickets_list":"[]","_tribe_ticket_has_attendee_info_fields":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-242","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-cycling-advice"},"featured_image_src":"https:\/\/blog.citrus-lime.com\/cliv\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/235\/2026\/10\/autumn_winter_banner.png","author_info":{"display_name":"D. Regan - Clive Mitchell Cycles","author_link":"https:\/\/blog.citrus-lime.com\/cliv\/author\/clivemitchellcycles\/"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Autumn &amp; Winter Cycling: Lights, Kit and Bike Care for Darker Days - Clive Mitchell Cycles Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Darker nights, wet country lanes and cold mornings. 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